GIA groups cultured pearls into four major types: Akoya, South Sea, Tahitian and freshwater. Pearls are natural, cultured or imitation, and those three are not interchangeable. Under FTC rules, a cultured pearl has to be called "cultured," and an imitation has to be called imitation, simulated or artificial.
What are the four main types of pearls?
| Type | Water | Where (per GIA) | What to expect |
|---|---|---|---|
| Akoya | Saltwater | Japan and China | The classic white or cream strand |
| South Sea | Saltwater | Australia, Indonesia, the Philippines | Large, white to silver or golden |
| Tahitian | Saltwater | French Polynesia | Gray, black or brown, often with colored overtones |
| Freshwater | Freshwater | China is the leading source | The widest range of sizes, shapes and colors, at lower prices |
In GIA's words, Akoya pearls are "the most familiar type of saltwater cultured pearl to most people in the U.S and other western markets," and freshwater cultured pearls "are the most commonly produced pearls" (GIA, Pearl Description).
Natural, cultured or imitation: what is the difference?
- Natural pearl: forms inside a mollusk with no human help. The FTC defines it as formed by causes "neither of which has in any way been caused or induced by humans" (16 CFR 23.19).
- Cultured pearl: "The composite product created when a nucleus (usually a sphere of calcareous mollusk shell) planted by humans inside the shell or in the mantle of a mollusk is coated with nacre by the mollusk" (16 CFR 23.19).
- Imitation pearl: "A manufactured product composed of any material or materials that simulate in appearance a pearl or cultured pearl" (16 CFR 23.19).
The labeling rule is strict: the word "pearl" may not describe a cultured pearl unless "it is immediately preceded, with equal conspicuousness, by the word "cultured" or "cultivated,"" and terms like "faux pearl" or "fashion pearl" need "artificial," "imitation" or "simulated" in front of them (16 CFR 23.20).
How is pearl quality judged?
GIA names seven value factors: "size, shape, color, luster, surface quality, nacre quality, and—for jewelry with two or more pearls—matching." Two worth knowing:
- Luster: "Of the seven pearl value factors, luster might be the most important." Look for sharp, bright reflections on the surface.
- Shape: "Round is the most difficult shape to culture," which makes round the rarest cultured shape, although well-formed baroque pearls have their own fans.
Source: GIA, Pearl Quality Factors.
How do you care for pearls?
Pearls are soft: GIA puts them at "2.5 to 3.0 on the Mohs Scale of hardness." Its care advice (GIA, June birthstones):
- Store pearls apart from other gems and metal jewelry so they do not get scratched.
- "Never store your pearl birthstones in a plastic bag."
- "Always apply perfume, hair products and cosmetics before putting on your pearl jewelry."
- Clean with "a soft, damp cloth, ideally after each time the pearls are worn."
If you bring pearl jewelry in, tell us there are pearls in it. Our professional cleaning uses ultrasonic and steam equipment for diamonds and gold, and a pearl piece should be cleaned the gentle way GIA describes instead.
Do we sell pearl jewelry?
Our online catalog is lab-grown diamond jewelry and does not include pearls. We do clasp replacement on necklaces and bracelets at our repair counter, and a pearl can be part of a custom piece. June birthday? See our birthstone guide, or contact us.
