White gold and platinum look almost the same on day one; the differences are what they are made of and how they age. White gold is a gold alloy (14k is 14 parts gold in 24) plated with rhodium, which wears thin over one to two years and is replated; platinum marked plain "platinum" is at least 95% pure, naturally white, and costs more. Yellow and rose gold need no plating at all.
White gold vs. platinum vs. yellow and rose gold
| 14k white gold | 14k yellow gold | 14k rose gold | Platinum (950) | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Precious metal content | 58.3% gold | 58.3% gold | 58.3% gold | 95% platinum |
| Color | White, from rhodium plating | Warm yellow | Pink, from copper in the alloy | Naturally white |
| Upkeep | Rhodium replating every one to two years of daily wear | Polishing | Polishing | Polishing |
| Relative cost | Lower | Lower | Lower | Higher |
The gold percentages are simple arithmetic: karat is parts of gold in 24, so 14k is 14/24 (58.3%) and 18k is 18/24 (75%); 24 karat is fine gold.
What do the karat and platinum marks have to mean?
- Gold: the FTC treats it as misleading to call a gold alloy "gold" unless "a correct designation of the karat fineness of the alloy immediately precedes the word "Gold"" (16 CFR 23.3). "14k gold" is right; plain "gold" on a 14k ring is not.
- Platinum: the plain word is misleading on anything "that is not composed throughout of 950 parts per thousand pure Platinum" (16 CFR 23.6). Lower-purity platinum alloys need the full composition disclosed.
- Rhodium: "It is unfair or deceptive to fail to disclose a surface-layer application of rhodium on products marked or described as precious metal" (16 CFR 23.7).
- "Solid": hollow gold "should not be marked or described as "solid"" (16 CFR 23.3).
Why is my white gold ring turning yellow?
Because the rhodium plating has worn thin and the warmer gold alloy underneath is showing. It is normal after one to two years of daily wear, and rhodium replating brings the white finish back without changing the ring. It is one of the repairs we do most at our Paramus repair counter.
Is platinum worth it for an engagement ring?
Choose platinum if you want a naturally white metal that never needs replating and you are comfortable paying more; in a custom piece, platinum costs more than 14k or 18k gold. Choose white gold if you want the same look for less and do not mind a replating every year or two. Choose yellow or rose gold if you like warm tones and want the least maintenance. If you have a known metal sensitivity, tell your jeweler and ask exactly what the alloy contains.
14k or 18k gold?
18k has more gold (75%) and a richer color; 14k (58.3%) has more alloy, which makes it the more practical everyday choice for many people and keeps the price down. Every piece in our online catalog is 14k: our lab-grown diamond rings are in 14k gold, and our studs, tennis bracelets and most necklaces are in 14k white gold.
Does the metal affect resizing?
Gold and platinum rings can both be resized by cutting the band, adjusting it and re-soldering the seam. What limits resizing more than the metal is the design: plain bands and solitaires are simple, bands with pavé all the way around take more care, and full eternity bands are limited or cannot be resized.
Matching metals across rings
Most people match the engagement ring and wedding band. Mixing metals works too, but white and yellow side by side will wear differently: the white gold band will need replating and the yellow will not. See our wedding band guide and men's wedding band guide, browse lab-grown diamond rings in 14k gold, or ask about platinum for a custom piece.
